Day 10: Vatnsnes Peninsula. Not a misspelling.

[life_of_glamour]

Seems like too many consonants in a cluster, but what you gonna do? Me, I just get by on not trying to say it out loud.

We flitted across the North coast of Iceland today, and took a detour to do a complete circle of the Vatnsnes peninsula, which is known as a good seal-watching area. At least, until all the seals got tired of the paparazzi and found somewhere else to hang out, sometime between when our guidebook was published and today. We did see a few lolling out on some rocks but far enough away, and sparse enough that it wasn't worth a picture.

We did a short hike up to a basalt formation called Borgarvirki, a natural fortress atop a rocky crag. The information board (all points of interest in Iceland have a large poster board of information about them in the parking area, it is very helpful for knowing what is a point of interest) mentioned that it was "likely utilized by early settlers as a stronghold" however it conceded that this is based completely on conjecture, as it is not mentioned in any oral or written histories and no physical traces exist from which to draw such a conclusion. Other than that, it just seems like it would be a good use for it. Nonetheless, it was fun to climb around on and the views from the top of the surrounding fjords were outstanding.







After that was the aforementioned disappointing seal situation, I mean, I wasn't desperate to see seals or anything - god knows I saw more than my share the summer I worked the salmon cannery in Kodiak, but that's another story.

As we were tootling along gaping at the views it occurred to me that we were looking out at the Arctic Ocean. I can't believe it took me this long to collect a third ocean! Here, have some Arctic Ocean, and believe me, the breeze coming off that sucker is bitterly, bitingly cold.



Something I didn't really realize until we were here is that this country is seriously outback, anywhere but in Reykjavik, apparently. For the most part you can drive for hours and hours and never see a gas station, much less a restaurant, so food has been kind of a challenge for me. If I go too long between meals I am prone to migraines (which are mostly curable with prescription drugs, but which are no fun in the meantime while they're waiting to kick in, and of which I've had 4 so far this trip). But eating in restaurants is challenging in its own way for me. So, we've been doing a lot of grocery store stops, because hot dogs are great and Cathyn loves them dearly but I don't need to eat hot dogs pretty much ever. They are, however, the national dish of Iceland. I kid you not. You can get them anywhere here, and apparently they are pretty darn good, as hot dogs go. I wouldn't know, I have no basis for comparison, all I know is I feel dirty when I eat them, and not in the fun mud wrestling kind of way. So we try to keep some handy food with us all the time so I have something to eat when the only option is hot dogs, but today we were all out of Laina-friendly food. I'd already eaten the bananas we had on hand.

Anyway, when we finally saw a grocery store today it was too late for me, as the headache was already starting, but Cathyn wisely consulted the itinerary, saw that we were staying at a Farm Stay accommodation with a kitchen available for guests to use, and picked up Ingredients. He made us marinated lamb, curried cauliflower and sauteed mushrooms, which was delicious. I'm a homegirl, in that I'd rather eat his cooking any day of the week versus eating in a restaurant, so that in combination with the drugs knocked out my headache and about an hour after dinner we decided to go on a hike that our Farm Stay guide recommended starting out back of the property. Since it's light all night here, setting out after 8pm isn't really any kind of a problem. This trail was described as a hike to a "natural stone arch over a creek, 3 km, very easy."

I dunno about you, but I've done some hiking in my time. When I see "very easy" I think of a paved path, or at worse a marked but obvious trail. This was no such thing. it started out up the road behind the farm, uphill for about a kilometer. Then we took a left turn to find ourselves wandering across a wild, barren field - rocky, rutted, and blissfully free of the ravages of civilization. No trail, just some sticks poked into the mud as guideposts. Here's how it looked, our very easy hiking trail:



So, in addition to being NOT an easy hike, it was boring. Nothing to see here, my friends. After a while, probably about 3 km, it turned to boggy muddy sheepfield. We went another kilometer, over another ridge, saw the guide-sticks stretching out into an interminable distance and headed back. Secure in the knowledge that complaining about this hike would bring us together in yet another bonding experience.

And as we headed back down to our farm, at 9:30pm tonight, I snapped this pic for you, so you can see the midnight sun. Plus, it was a pretty darn nice view, and a nice end to the day, all things considered.



I'm off to scrape some mud off my shoes.

Comments

[dakini-bones.livejournal.com]

Maybe the muddy sheep field was the view?

[jeanvieve.livejournal.com]

There are strange things done in the midnight sun,
by the men who moil for gold;
The Arctic trails have their secret tales
That would make your blood run cold;
The Northern Lights have seen queer sights,
But the queerest they ever did see
Was that night on the marge of Lake Lebarge
I cremated Sam McGee.

[falzalot.livejournal.com]

I am finally catching up on your adventures. Even the days with boring hikes are incredible! :-)